Some days you look in the mirror, take stock, and think what the heck, if it’s not one thing it’s another! 

Hyperpigmentation usually falls into this category – it’s always there, hanging out in the background like an understudy, waiting for its big break. A pimple pops up, heals, the pigment lingers. Accidentally spend too much time in the sun without reapplying a broad-spectrum sunblock? There’s your old friend hyperpigmentation, waiting to take a bow. 

Controlling pigment and maintaining even skin tone, particularly in higher Fitzpatrick’s, (deeper skin colors), takes diligence. In the case of hyperpigmentation, professional treatment is critical, so I recommend a series of 4-6 intensive treatments to infuse, condition and monitor skin before downgrading to less frequent treatments. 

Skin color is mainly determined by the amount of melanin present in the skin. Melanin, the source of brown or reddish skin pigment that gives skin its color, is synthesized in cells called melanocytes. Regardless of race, we all have approximately 800 to 1,000 melanocytes per square millimeter of epidermis.

Light skin has less melanosomes, and less melanin, and therefore less protection against exposure to UV radiation. Dark skin, although better equipped to self-protect, is also susceptible to hyperpigmentation, UV damage and skin cancer. Whether light or dark, all skin requires diligent UV protection to defend against collagen and elastin degradation. 

PIGMENTATION TREATMENT TIPS

UNDERSTAND THAT HOME CARE IS IMPERATIVE 

I do the heavy lifting and customization here in the treatment room at Dermal 911, but we need you to work with us. Just like working out with a trainer once a week followed by eating fast food won’t yield the results you want; you won’t achieve smooth clear skin without sticking to a twice daily home regimen for 6-8 weeks. It takes a bare minimum of 30-45 days to see a downturn in melanin production, and several more weeks to see a marked difference in dermal pigmentation. The approach to beating and brightening hyperpigmentation here at Dermal 911 is multi-faceted – tyrosinase inhibitors, anti-inflammatories and brighteners in every product step. 

WHAT THE HECK IS TYROSINASE?

Tyrosinase is the copper containing enzyme in skin tissue that causes the production of melanin in our skin. When tyrosinase production is overstimulated, as we see in hyperpigmented skin, we see spots – literally. The goal is to slow tyrosinase production, hence tyrosinase inhibitors.

MAINTAIN REALISTIC EXPECTATIONS

Your skin will gradually brighten as your melanogenesis process is slowed, inhibited, and regulated. Unlike the immediate gratification of a hydrating treatment, conquering pigment is a process that requires patience and consistency. 

DON’T BECOME COMPLACENT

It’s not uncommon to reach a skin goal, become forgetful about maintenance, and wind up back at square one. Application (and re-application), of a broadband sunblock needs to become a mainstay of your daily routine.  Alastin Sunscreen and Tizo sunscreen are my favorite sunscreens!

THINK BIG PICTURE

Even tone is the ultimate goal, but youthful looking skin (no matter your age), is also luminous skin. What equals luminous you ask? You know the look – red carpet, post vacation, and long weekend luminous. Well hydrated, smooth textured, and calm (no redness). To achieve both even tone and a glow, again, we go back to the multi-faceted drawing board. 

Every component of your professional protocol and home regimen needs to deeply hydrate, fight tyrosinase production, and keep inflammation at bay. Your licensed esthetician has access to potent, yet safe and effective solutions for brightening the skin without causing irritation or damage, which can lead to premature aging or rebound pigmentation. 

THE ROOT OF YOUR PIGMENTATION CHALLENGES

Pigment falls into 2 categories – passive and inflammatory. Passive is triggered by hormone imbalance (think pregnancy, menopause and high stress). It can be tricky to get under control due to the fluctuation of hormone levels. 

Inflammatory pigmentation (often called PIH, or post-inflammatory pigmentation), stems from excess UV exposure, picking at blemishes or injury. Inflammatory pigment is often easier to tackle as it usually isn’t rooted in the dermis.

HYPERPIGMENTATION MANAGEMENT

First things first, pigment control requires regular application and reapplication of a broadband sunblock. (do I sound like a broken record yet?) SPF15 is ok but I prefer a physical SPF30+ for optimal coverage, and to avoid the risk of trapping heat next to the skin.  

You’ve likely heard of hydroquinone. For years hydroquinone was considered to be the most effective ingredient for lightening hyperpigmentation. It is classified as an over-the-counter drug in the United States, and may be used in concentrations up to two percent, but has been known to trigger rebound pigmentation and hypersensitivity. We’ve got alternatives. 

An alternative to hydroquinone, is a blend of tyrosinase inhibitors and brighteners including phytic acid, kojic acid, zinc glycinate, ergothioneine, mulberry, bearberry, licorice, and many more. We will build an entire treatment and homecare regimen that saturates your skin with various levels of tyrosinase inhibitors and brighteners. 

During your professional treatments, we may also incorporate lactic, glycolic, phytic, and salicylic acids to accelerate pigmented cell turnover. Lactic acid has been shown to inhibit the formation of the tyrosinase enzyme, which in turn slows the process of melanin synthesis, a benefit that has not been illustrated by any other acid. 

CONTROL INFLAMMATIONKeeping skin calm is the right hand (wo(man) of tyrosinase inhibition. More often than not you’ll see anti-inflammatory ingredients licorice, niacinamide, green tea, oligopeptide-34, white tea, glucosamine, and mulberry, amongst others. 

Are you still trying to fight hyperpigmented and uneven skin on your own? Are you ready to glow? Schedule an appointment so we can get you on track to a more luminous you. 

PRO TIP: During treatment to lighten and brighten hyperpig­mentation, some areas may lighten faster than others, making the pigmented areas that are slower to respond appear darker by comparison. Please be patient, a diligent homecare routine works!

Need to pick up product or book your next treatment? Click here: http://www.vagaro.com/dermal911

The purpose of this blog is for skin care-related advice only. It is not intended as, nor is it a substitute for medical advice. Information posted should not be construed as personal medical advice. The reader assumes responsibility for advice applied. We strive for accuracy but cannot be held responsible for the current validity of data as best practices are in continuous flux. By consuming any of our content, you agree that you will hold us harmless for actions you made as the result of the data.